Tintagel,
said to be appallingly awful at mid-summer, is lovely in the off-season, so we'll
pack up a few sandwiches in Trebarwith Strand and walk on up over the ancient
coastal slate works and have another look in. 20 October 2004.
You
may not find this terribly rewarding unless you're included here, so this is a
good time for casual and random browsers to turn back before they get too caught
up in the sweep and majesty of the proceedings and can't let go.
Steeply out of old Trebarwith Strand, we get off with a good loping gait early in the day.
Kristin
waves adieu to the Port William Inn for the day and then strides vigorously past
all the coastal remnants of ancient slate mining sites. It's hard to imagine what
life was like for the workers here 200 years ago. Or even why they bothered. It
must have been a half-crazed survival instinct or something.
This
suggestive artifact is improbably said to have been left behind by slate miners
because it has lower quality slate. They just skipped that part and worked around
it.
One of
the sights near Tintagel, with its convincing Norman look, a sturdy late 11th
and early 12th century church, and rows of sad dead folks still lingering all about.
Cool
nave and a Norman font
Classic
vistas of the Norman church and the probably very kind former people planted there.
A
grey day in the graveyard
Kristin in the electric mist among the Norman dead
Not
the worst place for your eternal post-life retirement, but chilly, and wet.
The Tintagel
Old Post Office, originally a 14th-century manor house, used as a post office
in the 19th century and now a National Trust property. Once inside, don't stamp
your foot or sneeze.
Kristin stopping in at the Celtic Legends shop to see if they carry The Guardian or The Independent.
King
Arthur's Arms hotel, which wisely makes no claim that King Arthur actually slept
there (though George Washington may have). The knightly figure and caparisoned
horse painted on the wall are wearing armor dating from about 800 years after
the real King Arthur if there was one.
Heading
home at the end of the day -- that's Gull Rock standing off the coast near Trebarwith
Strand.
Kristin planning strategies, and tactics
Trebarwith Strand, and the Port William, loom below us near the end of the day. (Loom below us!)
Nearly dinner
time at the Port William (far right)
Two
hikers playing the jackanapes.
Steeply down into bustling Trebarwith Strand
The
Port William Inn nearly at dinnertime
Low
tide on the strand, and Gull Rock off the coast.
Okay, the dinner gong has sounded.
But what shall I wear? Are we formal, or casual?