Peck's personal Web site
summer 2003 -- A few weeks in Devon and Cornwall
Park and Hartland Quay
had a great time so far ambling along the Devon Coast Path, visiting friends,
and sampling fish and chips and bitter ale, and now we find we can't stop.
may not find this terribly rewarding unless you're included here, so this is a
good time for casual and random browsers to turn back before they get too caught
up in the sweep and majesty of the proceedings and can't let go.
Golden Park on the north Devon coast, between Hardisworth
and Welcombe. That's a 17th century farmhouse cum reasonably priced bed-and-breakfast,
and we're headed for the "seaview room".
Park lays on the full force of renovated-17th-century charm, and it's a working
pig farm into the bargain. You can't get in to see the pigs, unfortunately, because
after the hoof-and-mouth countryside lockdown a few years ago, farmers here guard
their virus-free environments jealously.
the hostess and host of this fine accommodation can keep you spellbound with vivid
descriptions of the local walks and pubs and poignant tales of the politics of
pig-farming in Britain. In the hands of a skilled farmer raconteur, the politics
of pig-farming in Britain can be fascinating.
Park hosts Lynda and Stephen Yeomans can be recommended very highly to avid coastal
walkers with their own or a hired car at their disposal. And a good roadmap. Click
to visit them.
"sea view" room at Golden Park, and the 'fancy old bathtub'
the time of reporting this, the narrator was not aware that this 'fancy old bathtub'
is a prized antique "slipper bath", apparently much sought after. If
you look up 'slipper bath' on Google you get an avalanche of product advertisements,
but if you look up 'slipper bath devon', guess who's on top? You're looking at
it here -- the genuine article.
in "slipper bath devon"
(with Bruce Chatwin's In Patagonia)
to Hartland Quay: Fellow
hiker Kristin following a borrowed dog northward along the Coast Path towards
along the Devon coast. All those striated rocky things down there are covered
when the Bristol Channel reclaims its own twice a day.
striated coastal rocks at low tide and 200m cliffs along the Coast Path
Testing the coast path for resistance to sudden erosion
views northward, and Hartland Quay gleaming whitely in the distance
and her entourage hastening northward towards Hartland Quay
Quay still in the distance, good colors along the way
Kristin testing the path for erosion resistance
companion Kristin crossing an exceptionally
fine meadow with oblivious sheep on it.
back southward at low tide.
of that weird striated rock formation passively awaiting the tide's coming in
Kristin looking forward to lunch at Hartland Quay
To Hartland Quay, the final lap
Quay. As the tourist
brochures tell it, a patent was applied for to the Privy Council in 1566, on behalf
of Grenville, Walter Raleigh, the Earl of Devon and other regional worthies, to
build a quay on this site, and granted. The quay itself has washed away long ago,
though signs of it remain, but the double-row of buildings provides a welcome
tourist destination and the soup's pretty good, too.
view southward from Hartland Quay, October 2003.
let's go down to King Arthur of the Round Table's place and see if we can get
our flat tire fixed.
Feedback and suggestions are welcome if positive, resented if negative, .
All rights reserved, all wrongs avenged. Posted 22 November 2003, revised 21 September 2008, 13 May 2013.