Dwight Peck's personal Web site

Ten days based in Lodi, Lombardy

A very cold 19 to 28 February 2018



You may not find this terribly rewarding unless you're included here, so this is a good time for casual and random browsers to turn back before they get too caught up in the sweep and majesty of the proceedings and can't let go.

Last views of Lodi on this trip

Lodi by night, 24 February 2018

We're just back from our afternoon in Crema, and it's time for dinner.

But first, a look in at the Saturday night street market, just in case

Market Night is less well attended than Market Day.

In the Piazza della Vittoria, or Piazza Maggiore, in the evening

The Duomo di Lodi

And the Broletto

The well-lit market, which would have a festive look to it if there were any people here

Off to dinner at the Ristorante Gaffurio, on the Via Gaffurio: fabulous.

Our last day in Lodi, 25 February 2018

Errands first: we need to scoot down to the shoe repair shop near the Addo bridge and admire the reasonably-priced results of the friendly gentleman's labors.

Past the St Francis and down the hill to the river

And then back up the hill to the Corso Umberto I and preparations for the forthcoming elections underway in front of the Church of St Philip Neri -- 'the vote that unites Italy'.

The Chiesa San Filippo

And the Via Volturno back towards our Palazzo Mozzanica

The market stalls in the Via Volturno

And in the Piazza Mercato -- just a quick look around; you never know.

The market and the back end of the Duomo

A last visit to the Piazza della Vittoria

Not a Dylan concert, unfortunately; it's some kind of exhibition, 2-31 March, in the Biblioteca Comunale Laudense, the city's public library.

Here's a market stall specializing in products from Sardinia, but it appears to be flying the Corsican flag.

Well, that's cleared up. The Sardinian flag has added a big red cross and boasts four of the 'moor's head' emblems instead of the Corsicans' only one - - - -

Like this.

The Caffé Vistarini and a lunatic on a bicycle -- the temperature is approximately 0°C this morning.

The very chilly market on Sunday, 25 February 2018

We're passing the Chiesa Sant'Agnese on the Via Garibaldi -- built starting in 1351 as part of an Augustinian monastery, it looks quite interesting.

But it's been taken over for care by the Touring Club Italiano and is open only on fairly restricted hours, and not now.

A last look at the Piazza Maggiore or Vittoria

And now, at last, for the Collezione anatomica 'Paolo Gorini'

The Collezione anatomica 'Paolo Gorini', recommended as one of the major sights of the city, at least for visitors of a particular cultural bent; we've been by a few times already, here as part of the city hospital complex, and always found it closed. Very short hours, but today we've timed it perfectly.

Paolo Gorini (1813-1881) was an Italian scientist, based in Lodi after the age of 21, who had to flee to Switzerland during the rebellion of 1848 but later returned. He was known for his discoveries on the properties of organic substances, but he became famous for his innovative method for embalming cadavers for forensic and research purposes. In 1872 he embalmed the body of Giuseppe Mazzini, a chief theorist of the revolutionary reunification of Italy.

This, in fact, is the museum . . . in this room. Embalmed body parts, mainly; well, exclusively, with a few whole bodies. Spleens, hearts, pelvises, heads, etc.

With a very nice decorated ceiling . . .

. . . and a rogues' gallery of heads and pelvises.

There's the master himself. His method, whatever it was, in no longer in use, however.

Back to the fine Gaffurio restaurant in the evening, and then, tomorrow, onward to the Villa Puccini in Venegono Superiore (hint: not far from Como).


Feedback and suggestions are welcome if positive, resented if negative, . All rights reserved, all wrongs avenged. Posted 29 March 2018.


Lodi trip,
February 2018