Ghosts of Pragues past
Peck's personal Web site
time to go to Prague
only time I had been in Prague was in late December 1983, a snowless Christmas
in Switzerland -- we stayed overnight near the Charles Bridge, but we were dashing
north to find snow in the Krkonoe mountains and we
didn't stop to see a thing. That seems now like a poor
choice -- and there wasn't any snow in the Krkonoe
anyway, nor in the High Tatry
in the Carpathians, so we gave up and went home, where it had snowed while we
mid-July 2007, it's time to see Prague properly. But quickly. Kristin's here,
but has to go back soon, so we're going to try to see all the good stuff in four
days, if you can imagine.
may not find this terribly rewarding unless you're included here, so this is a
good time for casual and random browsers to turn back before they get too caught
up in the sweep and majesty of the proceedings and can't let go.
our hotel, the Green Lobster (don't laugh) on Nerudova,
or Neruda Street, named after Neruda the poet. Not THAT
Neruda the poet -- you're thinking of Neftali Ricardo Reyes Basoalto of Chile,
who won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1971 but ripped his pen-name "Pablo
Neruda" from OUR Neruda -- Jan Neruda (1834-1891),
born right here in the Malá Strana neighborhood of Prague and a famous
Czech nationalist literary figure in his time. (Or so they say.)
down Nerudova, the main thoroughfare up the hill from the historic downtown near
the Charles Bridge to the Hradcany castle area. One's watching the street a little
anxiously at this point, since in a brief moment of utter senility I left my money
belt in the airport taxi, and now we're hoping that the taxi driver will bring
it back. Promptly, an hour later, the driver drove back up the hill to hand it
over intact, and persisted in trying to refuse any tip for that.
Green Lobster hotel (notice the Greenish Lobster on the front), evidently named
after its ancient tradesman's symbol. It's part of a Czech chain called Garzotto
Hotels (www.garzottohotels.cz) and
it's very nice indeed. The price was reasonable, we had in effect a "suite"
(since there was an extra bedroom), and the location was perfect, at the top of
the hill near the Prague Castle. Good breakfast, too. It was awkward only late
Saturday night, when a large bunch of inebriated American girls had a one-hour
group laughing fit in the street.
the ceiling in our room -- utterly lovely. We were in the Green Lobster Building
Number Two, directly across the street from Green Lobster Building Number One.
The staff was great, and the young desk chappie not only spoke serviceable English
but also knew personally the taxi driver with my money belt ("white van,
very big guy, bald, big moustache" -- Ah, yes, I know him!).
our room looking up to the restaurant at the top of the street -- the one-way
street continues leftwards out into the suburbs (and the airport), whilst the
stairway on the right leads up to the Hradcany area and Prague Castle. What a
location. (Good restaurant, too.)
settling in, we're walking down past the St Nicolaus Church towards the Charles
Bridge on the river.
gate at the western end of the Charles Bridge ('Karluv most'). The old 12th century
bridge got trashed in a flood in 1342, and in 1357 King Charles IV laid the cornerstone
for this one, completed half a century later.
Charles Bridge itself is less a way to get to the other side of the river than
an Event in its own right -- like the Ponte Vecchio
over the Arno, but without the jewelry shops on top. Nice to stroll about and
take photographs, have as many caricatures made as you can bear, but sometimes
not the easiest way to get to the other side of the river. (In early times, however,
it was the ONLY way to get to the other side, which
is how Prague became a city.)
mighty river Vltava, guarded by a skinny guy with a sword
boats jockeying to turn around on the Vltava. Vltava??
- what's THAT all about, then? Well, the name comes from an ancient regional word
meaning "river", but it's probably better known by its German name,
the Moldau ("Moldau" also comes from an ancient regional word meaning
"river") -- think of the great Czech composer Smetana's symphonic poem
"Die Moldau" from "My Country", which brings to life the course
of the river from the Sumava region of Bohemia to the Elbe river in Germany and
eventually the North Sea.
On the Charles Bridge
or Charles Street, walking eastward into the Old Town.
churchy thing hovering a few streets over
enormous Staromestské námesti, "Old
Town Square", which has some other accents thrown in there that I can't make
on my keyboard.
view in Staromestské Square, with a neat pedally little cab for tourists
pedalling towards the right
Old Town Hall, first built in 1338 when the King of Luxembourg granted the citizens
of Prague the right to govern themselves, more or less. (The King of Luxembourg?)
The tower, 70 metres high, was built in the mid-14th century, and we're going
to sprint up it in a few moments. The astrological clock was added in 1410, and
every hour the tourists gather about in front of it (photo, right) to watch stuff
happen! -- mainly apostles! -- up in the little windows. Can't hold a candle to
the Strasbourg clock, but it's a nice thing to have in your town if you can afford
Kafka's family lived on the far side of this building when he was but a young
strip of a lad. (An anxious young strip of a lad, probably.)
view from the tower: A wonderful centre for a city, despite some of its unpleasant
historical associations -- in 1621, for example, during the Thirty Years War,
an anti-Habsburg rebellion went all wrong and the heads of 27 anti-Habsburg gentlemen
were removed here and displayed for some time afterwards, to "send a signal"
as the Americans would say.
Our Lady Before Tyn church overlooking the square
Lady Before Tyn church from the Old Town Hall
streets and red roofs of the Old Town
Castle up the Hradcany hill on the far side of the river
explaining how the city could have been laid out better
to go back down
nice housefront near the Old Town Square
cars. Tourists bent
upon the effortless scenic drive-through can choose from among these vintage cars,
all apparently genuine and we saw at least 20 of them; the ubiquitous pedalos
cabs powered by (presumably) very fit young people; and the little green train
that chugs all around the main sights of the city . . .
. . like this. Every city in Europe has got one! Including Nyon.
afternoon, and time for a teeny sip of excellent Czech dark beer in this little
in the day, and with a full programme of operatic marionettes in the evening.
We're hastening back through the Old Town towards the Charles Bridge to freshen
up a bit before our evening date with High Puppet Culture.
lovely old street, especially got up for us summer tourists, and a great place
to buy your useless gewgaws.
these, for example, or . . .
. . like these. They've even got the NFL dolls!!! And quite a few Putins. And
a couple of old Kerrys they couldn't unload.
Charles Bridge at the rush hour
the evening, we're going to have to miss this performance of Tennessee Williams's
classic play "Sladké ptáce mládí", because
we're already booked for the Mozart Opera on Strings.
he is himself, Don Giovanni, or rather his body-double, as we're watching the
original get tunefully thumped on the stage right now.
delightful performance of Don Giovanni at the National
Marionette Theatre. Especially when Don Giovanni wouldn't give it up at the
end and the beefy puppeteer had to come down onto the stage and drag him off by
Vitus cathedral in the middle of the Prague Castle. Constructed throughout the
14th century, with lots added later, it's an extraordinary edifice overlooking the city.
front gates of the Prague Castle from the Hradcanské Square on the western
We're just in time to watch the changing of the guard!
blue uniforms, distinctly civilized-looking for military chaps. At first blush,
it's hard to see why military guards are needed for a picturesque medieval cathedral,
but this is also the seat of the working government, and President Vaclav Klaus
is upstairs working hard on his new policies right now.
the Prague Castle, here's St Vitus, and the famous "Golden Gate" half
cut off at the bottom of the picture.
the far end of the cathedral, this is St George's Basilica (wearing red).
not pausing, because we're bound for the Lobkowicz Palace at the far (eastern)
end of Prague Castle. That's a toy museum on the left, but the entrance to the
Lobkowicz Palace is just here on the right -- first the café, and the art
galleries a little farther on near the tower.
view over the city from the Lobkowicz Palace café -- we've just been to
a recital of short baroque and Czech classic pieces by a piano, violin, and viola
in the music room, and now we've ducked into the café for a fast soup and
a biscuit before we tackle the 20-odd rooms of the Lobkowiczs' art galleries. Fabulous stuff -- mostly family portraits
back to the Pernstejn forebearers of the 16th century and curiosities like armor
and dishware, but also a Cranach the Elder, two Canalettos, a Brueghel the Elder,
a putative Velazquez, lots of exceptional items, and not a bad recorded audio
tour of the highlights by the present Prince or Duke or whatever he is, and his
wife, and even his mother, who from her accent evidently comes from Texas (and
in fact went to college with Kristin's mother). The Lobkowicz family has been
here easily since the 16th century, but were
dispossessed by the Nazis in the late 1930s, but
in 1947 got it all back again (30-odd castles all around the country), but
then got dispossessed again by the Communists a year or two later. But
then . . . under Vaclav Havel's humane administration in the 1990s, got it all
back again, and lets the public in out of gratitude and a small fee to keep it
all humming along smoothly.
is darting into the Prague Castle baroque museum, on the far side of St George's
Basilica, and I'm going to join her there in a moment.
admonitory piece that I took especially to heart and vowed to alter my ways.
George's Square. As we're pausing for a lemonade.
dashing past St Vitus's cathedral in search of more art.
plunging down austere tunnels. In search of more art.
art. The Powder Blue Guards are at it again. The fixed bayonets seem a little
overdone in this day and age.
Summer Palace of the Belvedere in the Royal Garden, just outside the Prague Castle
to the north
Vitus Cathedral from the north, near the Royal Garden
back to Hradcany Square after the crowds have gone
very civilized people, here, despite their appalling taste in monumental art on
the castle gates.
back at the Green Lobster to freshen up, artworked-out for the day and ready for
some Dumplings and Beer.
day, back to St Vitus's, and here's Prague's Special
Pal, St John of Nepomuk (or, in Czech, Jan Nepomucky!), 1340-1393,
Bohemia's favorite son, and a Genuine Saint. Whilst vicar-general he ran afoul
of good king Wenceslaus (or one of the Good King Wenceslauses, anyway) and got
put in a big bag and thrown off the Charles Bridge into the mighty Vltava. Most
of the miracles ascribed to him are pretty silly, and it's not true
that the name Nepomucky comes from the Inuit dialect of Nunavut.
Vitus's insides, capacious and well-lit. We're going up the tower now, and as
it turns out, we may regret it.
we're at the top! The two-foot wide spiral staircase up St Vitus's tower rises
two and a half miles over the city, over three hundred thousand well-worn narrow
medieval steps, with a continuous stream of panting tourists behind you, seven
cases of cardiac arrest above you, and a sweaty stream of desperate humanity trying
to edge around you to get back down. Not an easy game.
the views are worth the trouble.
eastward along the length of the Prague Castle, St George's Basilica below
Charles Bridge into the Old Town on the right, the Mánesuv traffic bridge
on the left
Vltava river wending east- and then northwards
Charles Bridge and the Old Town from the top of St Vitus cathedral
Nicolaus church below us, on this side of the river
last look at the somewhat daunting surroundings before we try to fight our way
back down that spiral staircase. One has to wonder about how they made all that
ornatery on the towers -- hopefully well-paid medieval union guys with benefits
suspended from ropes, or wooden scaffolding two and a half miles high alongside
PTSD-look back up at St Vitus's tower. Reaching two and a half miles into the
summer Czech sky.
look at St George's square, because the red basilica really sets it off.
outside of the Prague Castle on the southern side, in the Garden Na Valech along
the whole length of the front of it.
entire South Gardens of the castle were entirely taken up, whilst we were there,
by a photographic exhibition of the works of Ivan Pinkava
(b.1961), 34 splendid haunting works, combining all kinds of traditions from nude
painting, gay art, concentration camp starkness, existential blank expressions,
and biblical and classical allusions in the titles. This one is just "Brother
and Sister", though.
is scrutinizing "Scar", though the photo doesn't come out well in the
photo. Or 'metaphoto', as you might say.
the left, "The Lamb of God, the End of Time", kid with a ram's skull,
and on the right, of course, "Medusa".
photographs in the Maximálni Fotografie exhibit just from June to September
south gardens of the Prague Castle, with the Ivan Pinkava exhibit all along it
completely different. Trams filling up near the Vojanovy Gardens
Transportation Competition on the Mánesuv
bridge -- three pedicabs going head to head with two trams
pedicabs bound for the Prague Castle
Vitus cathedral from the Old Town
of Old Prague
a 1996 sculpture by David Cerny, a guy hanging from one hand, not a memorial to
Dubcek after the Soviet invasion of 1968.)
wandering through old Prague, after a brief stop at the wine shop for a little
something for later in the evening.
few views of Old Prague south of Charles Street
narrator loves archways.
open-air market in the Václavské námesti
waiting patiently for her turn at the trough
enormous market, a couple hundred metres long by the look of it, but nothing here
that Kristin really needs right now.
we'll wait in line for today's Guardian and The Independent, and the International
Herald Tribune if they've still got one.
Powder Tower. The fancy medieval stuff on it is evidently early 20th century,
but it's still evocative.
old Tynska neighborhoods behind the church, little hidden treasures
photos taken through arches, wherever he may find them.
the Staromestské Square, not entirely safe from Segways whizzing past
free, plein-air jazz and rock show for the tourists. Too good to miss.
music was so good that we tucked ourselves into one of the sidewalk cafés
for a couple of late afternoon dark beers, so that Kristin could plunge through
The Independent and The Guardian and the narrator could smile fatuously at the
passing crowds and listen to the music with a dark beer clasped firmly in hand.
dark beer at the sidewalk café that helped to make this moment so special
cost about three times what it would have in the pubs on the way up the Hradcany
hill. The centre of the Old Town is expensive! Outside
the centre, cheap! In restaurants up the hill near
our hotel, our dinners -- nothing luxurious but good, solid fare -- cost a good
deal less than they would have in our little villages up on the mountain here
in French-speaking Switzerland.
the 1) vintage cars, 2) little red pedicabs, and 3) green train, ANOTHER way to
view the sights of the city recumbently.
are gathering for the apostles to do their little Apostle-Jig up in the clock windows, right on the hour.
ornate housefront again. Who's that stoical fellow in the lower right centre,
with the sign over his head?
that's just The Experienced Guide.
brass band up on the Charles Bridge western gate, blaring out soulfully.
Churchill and Dwight Peck in Prague, July 2007
Charles Bridge in a Sunday morning rain. We're blasting through here on the way
to the traditional Sunday morning antiques market in one of the back alleys of
the Old Town. Those of us who are not licensed antiques dealers are just tagging
along with yesterday's Guardian under our arm, in case things start to drag.
Sunday morning antiques market, but virtually no antiques showed up. Kristin did,
of course. (That didn't come out right at all!)
looking for antique bargains in a drizzly rain, and found some.
antiques bargains in a plastic bag under one arm, we're hurtling back through
the now-familiar old neighborhood to arrange a taxi to the airport.
quick look at Beethoven's house on the way
the music guy. The deaf one.
The American Embassy, sitting right out there for all
to see. Some security. The Czech police were positioned a few doors down (at a
'czech point') to run a brief czech over all cars trying to get up this street,
and the local drivers seemed perfectly resigned to the usual drill, hopping out,
popping open the hood, jogging back to pop open the boot, whilst another cop ran
a mirror all round the underside of the car, and back into his car, crunching
into gear and going on his non-political way, to do his shopping or take the dog
to the vet or whatever.
not clear if all countries' embassies need to have the shades pulled down all
the time. The Italian flag on the right is not the embassy of Italy (that's just
up the hill a ways), this is an Italian restaurant. Competing
time to go home already!
don't for God's sake leave without your Czech snack!!!!!
and suggestions are welcome if positive, resented if negative, .
All rights reserved, all wrongs avenged. Posted 15 August 2007, revised 16 September 2012.
and Dwight, at parting