Peck's personal Web site
visit to Switzerland,
graduated from university, soon to be off to job-hunting, Marlowe visits the Old
Dad in Switzerland.
of France: Château de Joux
may not find this terribly rewarding unless you're included here, so this is a
good time for casual and random browsers to turn back before they get too caught
up in the sweep and majesty of the proceedings and can't let go.
to April 2004: There's the Château de Joux in France just over the mountain
from home, on a fine spring day
came to see the whole thing, including the deepest inner passageways, but major
renovations were underway and we got nearly nowhere at that time. (More
exterior shots in good light.)
now, on the Fourth of July 2007, Marlowe and the
Old Dad have come back to see if we can get a proper tour of the place.
humble wooden palisade in the 11th century, the big stone centre parts were got
underway in the 12th century, and since that time nearly everyone has had a go
great military engineer Vauban extended matters significantly out from the old
medieval keep in 1690. See another major work of Vauban's, Besançon,
guided tours here, no wandering about on your own, and here's our excellent young
guide, probably a university student, telling us the old tales in a kind of English
that's much more fun than real English.
here's one of the outer layers, enormous earthworks laid on by Joffre in the late
look at different periods of military architecture piled one upon another as we
march up into the medieval portions
merry guide instructing us as we prepare to charge up the Trick Steps to the highest
level of the old medieval keep -- the stairway has two false steps on it that
can be removed at just the right time to drop attackers into the soup. In fact,
that 15th step from the bottom is called a "ha ha", because that's what
you say when the attackers step on it.
fort at Larmont, on the far side of the ravine (or "cluse") of
Pontarlier, built in the late 19th century but now abandoned, with no funds to
restore it. The road beneath is one of the few really good ways through the Jura
mountains, from all of northern Europe through the Franche-Comté region
to Vallorbe in Switzerland and out onto the Swiss Plateau and the Lake Geneva
region, eventually to northern Italy. The TGV fast train to Paris goes right up
through here, in fact. It's always been a good place to have your fortress. Except
that, then, everybody has to besiege it!
famous author and statesman Mirabeau (1749-1791)
got himself sort of imprisoned here in 1775 for his extravagent lifestyle, and
spent much of his time idling away in that little room on the left, and the rest
of it hanging out in the nearby town of Pontarlier, where he met his "Sophie",
with whom he got into so much semi-pornographic trouble later.
doing her Mirabeau imitations in Mirabeau's old cell in the tower
view from the parapets down into the ravine below, with the rail line and the
road leading out towards Neuchâtel in Switzerland. The road to the left,
where the big truck is exiting the frame, leads towards Pontarlier and Besançon
in France, and off to the lower right it leads through Vallorbe towards Lausanne
Château de Joux has a well-known arms museum in it, including a rare rifled
firearm from 1717, though we must have passed that one right by.
maquette of the château, placed improbably way back here in the inner precincts
instead of out where the light can get to it.
here's Berthe's room, what a sad tale that one is.
Well, here's the tale as we have heard it told: the lord Amauri III de Joux went
off to the Crusades in about 1170, leaving to wait for him for some unspecified
length of time his young wife Berthe. She did, but some years later a knight (Amey
de Montfaucon) passed by on his return from the Holy Land, got a look at Berthe,
and informed her solemnly that her husband had died of his wounds, probably speaking
her name with his last breath. And then Amey did his very best to comfort Berthe
in her grief, wink wink nudge nudge.
alas, Amauri came home again and found . . . well! In a homicidal snit, he hanged
young Amey off the battlements and stuck Berthe into this appalling little cell
("un miniscule cachot où elle ne pouvait se tenir qu'à genoux")
where she couldn't stand up or lie down (but could gaze at her beloved Amey out
the tiny window, as he swung in the breeze). OOoof. When years later the old knight
finally died, Berthe's son let her out of the thing and packed her off to a convent
-- genuine records show a real Berthe de Joux still living in the abbaye of Montbenoît
in 1228, probably not playing with a full deck by that time.
we're dropping down a few levels way back in the middle of the castle.
a bust of Toussaint Louverture (1743-1803), the former
slave and guerilla leader who led the blacks to victory over the Spanish, English,
and French authorities in Haiti in the late 1790s, moved on to Santo Domingo to
free the slaves there, made a deal with the USA not to invade the South in return
for arms, and established a constitution, with himself in charge of it, over the
whole island of Hispaniola in 1801.
our merry guide explains, Napoleon Bonaparte had taken an interest in things out
that way and sent his brother-in-law Leclerc to undermine Toussaint's authority.
In 1802, Toussaint packed it in, signed an agreement with the French, and retired
to his farm. Mistake. Brother-in-law Leclerc swooped
in and rounded him up and transported the trusting fellow to France, in fact,
to this room, where he died of pneumonia in April 1803, as who wouldn't have.
This has been described as the coldest place in France, and you can see the level
of amenities in this cell where he plotted and schemed his return to the tropical
islands throughout the winter.
of the inner workings of the fortress of Joux
Famous Well. It's 120
metres deep now and used to be higher, up to the top courtyard of the keep, and
was chiselled out by guys hung down in there on ropes until they stopped chiselling
and were replaced (like non-union coalminers in Utah). Our merry guide tottered
out onto that grill, bade everyone to be silent, and dropped a coin down into
the well, and we waited for the sound of it hitting the water. After a while,
I gave it up as a party trick gone awry and started off to see the rest of the
sights, but then I distinctly heard a muffled splash.
dungeons in the depths of the Château de Joux -- in fact, the bricks on
the walls of the prison cell are made of a spongy kind of styrofoam, and the cell
door is an utter fake. It was put in for a Jean-Paul Belmondo movie some years
ago. Pretty realistic (like all of his movies).
part is real, we're going back out into the sunlight.
in the sunlight at last
snackbar in the rain
last look at the Château de Joux in the rain, as we move on towards the
Château de Grandson in Switzerland, to close
out the day.
views of the Château de Joux two months later
and suggestions are welcome if positive, resented if negative, .
All rights reserved, all wrongs avenged. Posted 21 August 2007, revised 20 June 2008.