Oh, and the Lido, and Chioggia. And Torcello.
wanted to go to Venice again. Paintings, history, decaying architecture,
etc. But we can't afford it anymore. So we went to the Lido.
may not find this terribly rewarding unless you're included here,
so this is a good time for casual and random browsers to turn back
before they get too caught up in the sweep and majesty of the proceedings
and can't let go.
May 2010, we've been down the Pendolino train under the Simplon
Pass to Milan and thence to Venice St Lucia station, thence by
vaporetto down the Grand Canal and out to the Lido, between the
Venice lagoon and the Adriatic Sea.
now we're searching out the Villa Ines at about happy hour.
a family-run renovation project, for us at this time of the year
is half the price of anything we could find in downtown Venice.
Ines gardens and very cute kids
Ines -- our corner room was not capacious, but it was fitted out
to a very high standard, WiFi, whirlpool bathtub, plasma TV (no time for that), excellent
breakfast in the room, and delightfully friendly hosts.
Adriatic side of the Lido -- Aschenbach territory. Charming!
your own umbrella. The Dirk Bogarde/Visconti 'Death in Venice' film
is harrowing -- filmed at the old Hôtel des Bains
just next door. (Mann's harrowing story is also set at the Hôtel des Bains.)
Lido has its own canals.
to the Lido port the next day for some sightseeing downtown
just across the lagoon. St Elena's gardens at the near end are 10
minutes off from the Lido, St Mark's another 5 or 10 minutes onward.
yachts along the shoreline near the Arsenal
down memory lane -- commemorating childhood visits to the Hotel
Gabrielli on the Riva degli Schiavoni
to St Mark's and we're starting to run into the crowds
street scene, and another Leaning Tower
Emmanuele statues coming up, be warned.
struck with monumental shock and awe. Ettore Ferrari cast these
awful things in 1885 in honor of Italy's first king, Vittorio Emmanuele.
Thanks for that.
Bridge of Sighs, built in 1602 to convey prisoners from the courts
in the Doge's Palace (left) to the prison on the far side of the
canal. The advertising hoardings are more recent. Supposedly it
was our old friend Byron who gave it its evocative name. The guy
who designed it had an uncle who made the Rialto bridge (conveniently
named Antonio da Ponte).
if you need a new watch, this would be the place to come. I get
mine at the Interdiscount chain shops for 19 francs. This is the
Ponte della Paglia, or 'Bridge of Straw', which is briefly disconcerting
but derives from the ancient fodder market here.
scoping out the Doge's Palace. The huge babe with the sunglasses
on the far wall is recent.
Giorgio Maggiore from the gondola stop
degli Schiavoni (apparently refers to the Croatian Slav merchants
who once congregated here)
Mark's and the campanile from the water's edge
to keep up with Kristin through the throngs of happy shoppers
of our price range
Piazza San Marco and Miss Sixty. We're headed for the Museo Correr
(a first time for me).
and the Museo Correr
along, now. This will be fun.
museum, the Correr, lots of nice things, and the Archaeological
Museum (the upper floors on the right) is connected, both price-wise
and through connecting doors. All extremely efficient.
Birdman of S. Marco
Basilica of St Mark's, and more hoardings. It's excellent, one of
the world's best Byzantine thingies, but the line is long and we've
been there and done that fairly often, so perhaps another day .
. . .
round the back, Kristin spies Tetrarchs.
here they are, the Tetrarchs. The Emperior Diocletian had the brilliant
idea of dividing the Roman Empire, for administrative purposes,
in half (in A.D. 293), with an Augustus and a deputy Caesar to rule
over each part of it. Good idea, lasted twenty years. This porphyry
statue from Constantinople (modern Istanbul) was ripped off by the
"Christian" Crusaders and brought here in 1204.
inside the Doge's Palace now (on the same ticket as the Museo Correr,
is that cool?).
Giorgio from the Doge's Palace
of the Doge's Palace. Reminiscent of my old flat in Gimel, but we
didn't have all the arches.
view out the Bridge of Sighs on the way to the prisons (sigh!)
Dogeness trod these steps every day in the performance of his doge
Bar Americano in St Mark's. (Harry's Bar is just down the way.)
There are many signposted routes between St Mark's and the Rialto
bridge, not all of them direct, but all of them leading past the
kiosk. No newspapers, just gewgaws.
slender building. We're just wandering about, the best way to see
Venice if you've got a little time.
street scene. Somewhere in Venice there is a place called "Three
Bridges" where five bridges intersect. We report, you decide.
Monks frequently look for bargains on gothic metal music CDs. And manga.
wandering through the Canaregio district on the way to the Ferrovia,
to try to book our way out of here at the end of the week. Can't
be done, they tell us that the computers in Switzerland must be
down, come back later in the week. The computers in Switzerland
on the hunt for churches, the weirder the better
dead lady under glass. That's fairly weird.
had one good idea and that idea was stupid." . . . Right you are.